Author’s Note: This is the Tree Chronicle chapter about Cullerne Gardens, listing the mfany trees planted and the strategy for future management. Notes, May-June, 1984

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A. Tree Nursery

The Hexagon Tree Nursery at Cullerne was constructed in the winter of 1981-2. It was constructed largely by Rory O’Connell and garden students. The funding came principally from the Tree Programme. The tunnel framework was purchased at a very inexpensive rate from Johnston’s Mill in Elgin – they had quite a bit just lying in a warehouse.

The design was by Dick Barton and the finishing of the interior standing out ground was done by Richard Morrell. The nursery was always intended to be used at capacity for trees and shrubs and 3/4 capacity for annual plants, fuchsias, begonias and pelargoniums. The windbreak netting used to cover the tunnels was complimented by one completely polythene-covered and one partially polythene-covered tunnel for the more frost tender fuchsias and so on, but primarily this was designed for and should remain for the propagation of trees and shrubs.

We did a small seeding programme in 1981, but in the spring of 1982 we embarked on the first major seeding programme. (See appendices of the Tree Chronicle for a list of species). By and large we have had very good success with our trees from seed, considering that no one in the Foundation had done this extensively prior to this time. We have had many challenges, including proper irrigation proper soil mixtures and correct seeding regime.

The vision of this area was principally one of creating as many types of trees as possible for community use as well as for sale and limited donation to local causes. We decided to specialise in containerised trees as they would be able to be planted at any time of the year and would suffer very little shock. The challenge in this is correct feeding over an extended period and continual watering (containers dry out ultra quickly and run out of food within one year if not fertilised in a slow release method.)

We have decided not to do a lot of propagation of trees which are obtained cheaply from the local nursery. We are trying to specialise in ‘different’ trees, but at the same time as it is so reasonable to grow main ones which we will use on the property, and also educative, that we have gone ahead and grown some Scots Pine and so on which can also be obtained very cheaply at Christie’s nursery.

The design of the hexagon was to create an artistic impression as well as a multi-use facility. The hexagonal shape was a honeycomb and gives protection from all sides while still providing standing ground in the middle. It has proved to be one of the most successful of our designs as well as the most successful horticultural project in the Foundation. I say this because the finances, educative side and production, all combined in a beneficial manner to create a wonderful healing and productive experience for the Foundation.

For me, it has been a bit of magic to have this happen. People have arrived, repeatedly, at the right minute to take things on. Albert Bean and a Cullerne garden student, Annie Blampied, filled important gaps in 1982-3. Now with Annie developing the education side (Children of the Green Earth) and Linda Parker doing overall co-ordination, nurseries and so on, I give profuse thanks that the programme prospers.

B. Cultural Notes

Seeding. Most of our bulk tree seeds have been ordered from the company, Tree Seeds. Smaller amounts of a great many varieties have been ordered from Chiltern Seeds. In late Autumn we normally plan those new seeds which we will require and place an order with Tree Seeds by December for delivery in March. Chiltern Seeds can be ordered on a short period basis.

After checking the cultural requirements of the different seeds (dormancy, and so on) the seeds are sown with either warm or cold stratification procedures, as outlined in the Seeds of Woody Trees and Shrubs (by the US Forest Service). We normally use the white polythene fish boxes and fill them with a mixture of sterilised potting soil and gravel or perlite, and according to the size of the seed, a thin dusting of either this mixture or pure gravel on the top.

After being labelled, the dates recorded and information put in the log, observation has to be done regularly to determine if watering is sufficient and if germination has occurred. For those under warm stratification, the glass needs to be turned daily in order to avoid water-logging. The greatest danger here is of course different types of fungus and damping off. No feeding is required in the seed box stage. Those boxes kept outside must be protected from birds and mice!

Pricking Out. When the seedlings have emerged and are in their seed leaf stage (seeds leaves showing prior to primary leaves emerging), they should be pricked out, just as are annual flowers, into various containers.

If they are slow-to-medium growing trees they can be put directly into paper pots, where they will be for 2-6 months. If they are medium to fast growing trees they can go directly into the FP.11 series, which are 12 to a tray. The soil mixture is a bag of sterilised potting soil, 3-4 spadefuls (a good lashing) of washed gravel or very coarse grit, a 3″ pot of 6X dried manure and 1 measure (our special wee cup) of slow-release Fisons fertiliser. The seedlings get potted appropriately and, in everything but paper pots, get a good mulching of coarse grit on the top to keep the soil cool and assure minimum weed growth.

Potting On. Once the trees have reached a good growing rate in either the paper pots or the FP.11s, they then need to be potted up to the next size. For this purpose we have formerly used 8″ and 10″ Whalehide pots but have recently changed to a much better brand of pot of black copolymer plastic obtained from LBS Polythene Products. These black pots are less expensive than the Whalehide in the small size, but it is more economical to buy 10″ Whalehide pots for the large trees.

The seedlings or young trees are potted on with the 7″ (3 litre), 8″ (5 litre) or 10″, mostly 8″. They are then either positioned in varying parts of the standing out ground of the hexagon or put into the main standing out ground next to the hexagon. If liverwort grows on top after a year, supposedly watering with aspirin takes care of them. Keep pots weed free!

Standing Out Ground. This standing out ground was built in the summer of 1983, and it was utilised to hold approximately 750 containers. They are watered by drip irrigation with each of the 15 rows containing its own stop cock as some of the larger trees require more water than the other trees. This irrigation system was obtained from Even Products, and needs constant observation to make sure none of the drips have clogged or come off. Drip irrigation is absolutely the best method possible, as it uses a minimum of water and applies it directly where the water is needed. If all horticulture could be done with drip irrigation we would save millions of gallons of water yearly.

The drips irrigation runs directly off the main galvanised holding tank, it cannot quite run off head pressure and needs to have the motor turned on.

The apple trees in the standing out ground were obtained in bulk from a nursery in England (through an advertisement in The Grower magazine). They were obtained on the prospect of containerising them for sale, and for use in establishing an orchard around the caravan park somewhere. They were not fed with Fisons fertiliser as none was available at the time, so therefore needed liquid fertilisation twice per growing season while they were in the containers.

The apple trees in containers and in the field nursery really should be considered to be either sold or planted out by the end of summer 1985. Therefore a major consideration for a Findhorn orchard should be done in the autumn/winter of 1984.

The windbreak along the east side needs to be finished, and can be done so with material left over from the Pineridge nursery.

We are getting very good growth on many of our trees with some of the Paper Birch now being fully two years old and reaching approximately 6 feet in height. The Wych Elm are also very fast growers and are easy to get from local seed. The Sorbus Americana (American Mountain Ash, equivalent to our Rowan) is also a very fast grower and is doing very well indeed. The Ash (Fraxinus Excelsior) is obtained from local seed and is doing very well.

Those species which are partially frost tender in their early stages (Robinia, Eycalyptus Gunni, especially) can be moved into the interior of the nets for the wintertime. It is surprising and amazing how such little protection can protect them from over damage in winter.

C. Other Notes around the Property

Field Nursery. Most of these trees and shrubs were left over from a big propagation effort done in 1971 by the Blackpool group of gardeners. They languished in pots and in various nurseries until 1978 when they were planted at Cullerne. We have of course added to this stock. Much has been sold (£500 total) to Christies Nursery in Forres (in 1981 & 82), the cash going to general Cullerne sales, not to the tree fund.

I had originally planned to take excess stock (from 1982-3) in containers and plunge them in the field nursery in order to create an easier way of building stock. This in fact has over extended us and we have stopped this practice for the time being. This area needs occasional attention for weeding by hoeing between the rows. It tends to dry out a lot and needs more attention for the watering. There are apple tree root stock along the side of the big tunnel in the field nursery which are labelled as per their number. These can be used either for grafting scion stock or for creating more root stock. (See the Tree Chronicle, appendix 1, on fruit tree grafting.)

Tree Planting on the Property. The Auracaria planted near the compost area was transplanted from behind the rock garden in the ornamental area, in early spring of 1983. In the center of the Scots Pine wood lot is a Nothofagus (either Oblique or Procera) planted by St. Barbe Baker on his last trip to Findhorn in August 1981. (See the Tree Chronicle, appendix 4, newspaper article).

The hedge along the fence down the main road is Prunus Myrobolana, and was planted in the hope it would create a hedge with pruning requirements of once a year, and creating some flowers and small wild plums for the birds. It has in fact proved not very tolerant to drought and has been very slow growing. It was planted in the spring of 1980 & ’81.

The poplars planted along the fence row in the middle of the main field were placed in spring 1983. Also planted were Balsam Poplars along the east dam of the pond. They got their feet into the water quickly and have done well. Those planted away from the dam mostly died of drought.

In the spring of 1984 we transplanted the hazels to around the pond and also interplanted some Wych Elm, Birch and a few Gum trees. The plan for this whole area is to be very sort of natural with trees and shrubs eventually. The main problem of course is drought (away from the pond) and deer/rabbit damage.

The Walnut, in the center of the small ornamental garden next to the front drive, was planted in spring 1981, and has proved to do rather well there. It obviously needs another walnut to eventually fertilise it, though the space for one is not known at this time.

The shelter belts in the field area were our first big experiment in small sheltering at Cullerne. The best bet has proved to be the Golden Willow, Salix Britzensis, which gives a lovely golden branch structure in the winter and grows prolifically in the summer. Ornamental currant (flowering currant) has also done very well. In the furthest field plot there are five single willows (a type of Salix Gigantium, called Super Willow) which are what is left out of a row of cuttings tucked into the field. The rest of this row died, but these took root and grew very well. We need to utilise these as material for a lot of cuttings in the early spring of 1985. This is our fastest growing willow and we need to begin to propagate this more.

Along the road, inside the fence, we are creating a line of Norway Maples. The native Sycamore, while a somewhat maligned tree, is actually very well suited to this are and I feel we should do more with it in our shelter planting and in other ways. Its suitability is evidenced by the massive one in the front garden of the house, which is probably the largest hardwood tree on the entire peninsula.

Other Established Trees. The lovely Silver Birch in the front garden is suffering from old age now and I have been pruning it drastically every year in order to prevent it from totally falling apart. It has a very special energy and one would hate to see it go. But we must plant for its replacement.

Just next to the big Sycamore is a planting of three Birch and one Wych Elm. This is planned to eventually replace the Sycamore. There are various white Poplar (Populus Alba) on the property, the most notable one being next to the Filclair tunnel. This is the ‘old man of the field’ and is a fantastic tree. This type of Poplar is indigenous to the area and does very well, though does not grow as quickly as the Balsam Poplars (which is fine).

In the back paddock is a single Rowan tree in the middle of the field, which is the ancient tradition of having a magical protection tree in the middle of the fields. One sees this a lot in Ireland but less so in England and Scotland. It is again a very nice old tree and should be given lots of energy.

D. Consideration of Tree Planting on the Property

The main consideration here is, as always, water retentive matter underneath the planting and ample irrigation. For the last two years we’ve been using the processed (steamed and neutralised), ground-up bark mulch. This seems to be very adequate but of course has no real nutritive value. Put a lot of this in the holes and do very ample under watering, followed by half filling the hole and another good dose of water, and then finishing off by making a dish at the top and watering again then cover up with a big mulch of the rough bark. We obtain the pulverised bark from Mr. Bell who lives at Dalcladach, Findhorn. He is primarily in the banana business but also has developed a side line business with his bark. The rough bark we get through Grant Saw Mills in Nairn.

E. Future Plans for Trees at Cullerne

We obviously need to continue with the shelter along the east side of the property. This is all pure sand and shingle and unless each tree is enriched underneath, only the Pines, Sea Buckthorn and Broom would really survive. This needs to be a deciduous belt in order not to create shade and frost zones in winter. We could get away with an evergreen belt at the top behind the hexagon and down about half way but further than that it should be deciduous if at all possible. Perhaps a mixture of Rowan, Sea Buckthorn, Broom and the White Poplar would do the trick. We should plan for this now and start propagating.

The most important thing that is needed really is a deer fence, as the deer herd seems to be increasing and we are offering them a nice ‘sweet shop’ in which to munch. They don’t seem to be responding very much to our pleas for moderation, so that’s why the Balsam Poplar has been good around the pond, as they are not eaten by deer.

The wood lot, of mature Scots Pine, needs yearly thinning as we’ve been doing since 1980. Eventually, in the next 5 years or so, there should only be various groups left, with more amenity/woodland trees planted to create a whole new effect.

The row of Tsuga (Canadensis?) on the north side of the driveway was planted by the Gibsons (previous owners of Cullerne, Park Building and Caravan Park). A few need replacing, and of course they will become an avenue, replacing the mass effect of the Scots woodlot.

The beech trees along the back drive will need pruning and trunking up, to create an avenue effect. They are beginning to grow well now, and were also planted by the Gibsons.

F. Propagating by Cuttings

From late June through August one needs to propagate those evergreen trees and shrubs which can be done by semi-ripe cuttings. The method is in most gardening books. Virtually all of the evergreen shrubs and a few of the trees can be done by this method.

Fertilisation. The only really controversial bit about the nursery has been the correct use of fertilisation. I am not fond of artificial fertilisation, and have only used it on this occasion. I found over the first year and half that the trees in containers grew very well for the first 6-8 months and then slacked off dramatically after they had run out of food. The 6X manure was fast release, easily assimilatable fertiliser, but left nothing to feed on after a few months.

I have not found an appropriate source of rock minerals in powder form, which one could combine with bone meal to experiment as the correct type of container food. Therefore I elected to use one of the commercially available, slow release fertilisers. This one is from Fisons, and is a 14-14-14 potency. This type of fertiliser obviously does not feed the soil and eventually, if used exclusively, is acid producing. However I have found that, in the short term, combined with a natural base potting soil such as peat, dried manure and grit, it is very acceptable and feeds the trees very well indeed. As long as one does not overdo the amounts, producing too much weak and sappy growth too quickly, I find this fertiliser is a very good compromise while we search for the correct form of natural, slow release and long lasting container fertiliser.

We could do small experiments by ordering different things from Spread Garden Service, as they offer different types of natural fertilisers in bags. This might be a bit expensive at first but would be a good experiment. Things like fish, blood and bone would be partially long lasting. Something else like with a bone meal mixture and some rock phosphates would be longer lasting.

However, one should keep in mind that this is an experiment which one must follow for at least two years to understand its full impact on containerised growing.

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Top image credit: Cullerne Gardens, with Cullerne House in the background drawing by Harley Miller